Every town has its madeleine; Montargis has an almond. Roasted, rolled in caramelised sugar that cracks under the tooth, it is called a prasline — with an s, if you please — and every praline in the world descends from it.
1636: the treat born in a duke's kitchen
The story is delicious in itself. The year is 1636, at the household of César, Duke of Choiseul, Count of Plessis-Praslin, Marshal of France and governor of Montargis. His head cook, Clément Jaluzot, roasts almonds in caramelised sugar. The duke treats the court, the sweet is christened “praslines” in his honour — and Jaluzot, shrewdly, ends up opening shop in Montargis as “Confiseur du Roy”.
Nearly four centuries later, Maison Mazet keeps the original recipe alive in the historic shop. The prasline is still made the old way, in copper cauldrons, and sold in its unmistakable cream-and-gold boxes.
The visitor's ritual: a paper cone of praslines, eaten while walking the canals. Resistance is futile.
The classic box of praslines is an infallible gift. The greedy add amandas (coated marzipan), grelons (chocolate-covered prasline shards) and the pavé du Gâtinais.
The “crottes du chien” of Montargis (yes, really)
Behind the cheeky name lies a story of loyalty: the legend of the dog of Montargis. In the 14th century, the greyhound of Aubry de Montdidier is said to have hounded his master's murderer until Charles V ordered a judicial duel between man and dog. The dog won, the murderer confessed, and Montargis gained a myth. The town's chocolatiers pay tribute with these mischievously named chocolate bites — the most tongue-in-cheek souvenir of your stay.
The Gâtinais pantry
- Gâtinais honey — renowned for centuries, especially sainfoin honey. Look for it at the market.
- Gâtinais saffron — in the Middle Ages the region was a great saffron land; a few passionate growers are reviving the spice.
- Cheeses, poultry & market gardens — the Gâtinais feeds its people well; the market is its shop window.
The market: Wednesday and Saturday mornings
On Saturday mornings especially, the centre comes alive: overflowing stalls, rotisserie smells, café terraces. The perfect moment to compose a quay-side picnic — local cheese, bread from the bakery next door, orchard fruit, praslines for dessert. If you stay in the centre, you are there in five minutes on foot.
Eating well in Montargis
Without drawing up a ranking that would age badly, three safe bets for choosing your table:
- Around place de la République and the quays — bistros and terraces with a view of the bustle.
- The gastronomic tables of the Montargois — the area cultivates a real tradition (its yearly “month of gastronomy” says it all); book for Saturday night.
- The canal-side guinguettes — in season, by bike, for a lunch with your feet in the grass.
A kitchen of your own, steps from the market
The joy of a whole apartment: bringing the Saturday market home. Our recommendation — a cosy 60 m² in the town centre — has a fitted kitchen, a small shared garden for summer dinners, and the bakery on the corner for morning croissants.
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